How to Move a Pool Table: A Step-by-Step Expert Guide

A pool table isn't furniture. It's a precision instrument weighing anywhere from 500 to 2,500 pounds, built around slate slabs that will crack if you look at them wrong and a frame engineered to sit perfectly level within a sixty-fourth of an inch. Treat it like a couch, and you'll ruin it — and possibly your back, your floors, and your walls along the way.

At Billiards Direct, we've spent years helping customers outfit, maintain, and relocate pool tables of every shape and size, and we've seen every way a move can go sideways. This guide walks you through exactly how to move a pool table the right way — whether you're shifting it across the room, across town, or across the country. You'll learn when a DIY move makes sense, when to hire a professional, what the job actually costs, which tools you absolutely need, and how to disassemble, transport, reassemble, and level your table so it plays as true as the day it was installed.

By the end, you'll know more about moving a pool table than most general movers, and you'll avoid the mistakes that cost other owners hundreds (sometimes thousands) of dollars in damage.

Before You Start: Should You Move It Yourself or Hire a Pro?

This is the single most important decision in the process, and almost every guide online either glosses over it or pushes you toward hiring (because the site is owned by a moving company). We'll give it to you straight.

The DIY vs. Professional Decision Matrix

Here are the eight factors that determine whether you should tackle this yourself or pick up the phone:

DIY makes sense when: you're moving a mid-range slate table across the same house, you have three or four capable helpers, you already own the tools, and you're comfortable working methodically over a 6-to-8-hour window.

Call a pro when: the table is valuable or antique, the move involves stairs or long distance, you can't secure a full crew, or the cost of a mistake (cracked slate alone runs $300-$600 to replace) exceeds the cost of professional service.

What Professional Pool Table Movers Actually Cost

Professional pool table moving runs $500 to $800 for most local moves, with national averages landing around $650-$850. Long-distance moves, one-piece slate tables, multiple flights of stairs, or tournament-size tables can push costs to $1,500-$4,000. Re-felting as an add-on service typically runs an additional $280-$430.

Cost drivers include table size (7-foot vs. 9-foot vs. 12-foot tournament), slate configuration (one-piece is dramatically harder than three-piece), access challenges (stairs, narrow doorways, tight turns), ball return mechanisms (they add complexity and time), and whether the mover is a billiards specialist or a general moving company with a sideline.

A critical tip most owners miss: billiards specialists beat general movers every time. A pool table mover knows how to seal slate seams with beeswax, how to torque rail bolts in the correct cross-pattern, and how to shim a three-piece slate to within a hair of perfect level. A general mover often doesn't, and a poorly reassembled table will play badly for years until you pay someone else to fix it. When vetting professionals, ask how many pool tables they move per month — if the answer isn't "dozens," keep looking.

How Much Does a Pool Table Weigh?

Weight drives every decision in a pool table move — how many helpers you need, what equipment you'll use, whether your floors and stairs can handle the load, and whether DIY is even realistic.

The slate itself carries most of the weight, and slate thickness matters more than most owners realize. Entry-level home tables use three-quarter-inch slate, which is technically below tournament spec but plays well for casual use. Serious home tables use full one-inch slate (the BCA tournament standard), and some high-end tables use inch-and-a-quarter slate that plays beautifully but weighs a ton — literally, on the bigger tournament sizes.

Why this matters for moving: a three-piece slate is infinitely easier to move than a one-piece, because you can break the load into 150-250 pound chunks that two people can handle. One-piece slate tables — most coin-operated bar tables and some budget home tables — require either mechanical lifting equipment or five-plus people with strong backs. Know which type you have before you start planning.

Tools & Supplies You'll Need if You Do It Yourself

Skimping on tools is the #1 reason DIY moves go wrong. Here's everything you need, organized by phase.

Essential Pool Table Moving Tools

Before you touch the table, gather:

• Socket wrench set with 1/2-inch and 9/16-inch sockets (rail bolts and leg bolts)
• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers in multiple sizes
• Power drill with a full screwdriver bit set (speeds up leg and slate work)
• Staple remover / staple puller (for felt and pocket removal)
• Needle-nose pliers (for stubborn staples)
• Utility knife (for cutting away felt if replacing)
• Allen/hex key set (some rail bolts and leg hardware use these)
• Adjustable wrench as backup
• Safety glasses and work gloves (non-negotiable — flying staples and slate edges both cause injuries)

Protection & Transport Supplies

For wrapping, padding, and moving components:

• Moving blankets — at least 6-8 heavy ones (slate needs double wrapping)
• Bubble wrap for smaller components
• Stretch wrap or packing tape
• Labeled zip-top bags for hardware
• Permanent marker for labeling (hardware bags AND slate pieces)
• Furniture dollies — 2 to 4 depending on move distance
• Furniture sliders (only for very short, same-room, same-level moves)
• Ratchet straps to secure everything during transport

Reassembly Essentials (Often Forgotten)

This is where most DIY moves fall apart — people think they're done once the table is loaded, then realize they don't have the right tools for putting it back together:

• Machinist level or high-quality 24"+ carpenter's level (a short bubble level will not cut it for billiards precision)
• Beeswax for sealing slate seams
• Wood shims for leveling
• Replacement staples for re-attaching felt
• Replacement felt/cloth if yours is worn or damaged
• Pool table cloth adhesive for glued-cloth tables

One note from experience: if you're already pulling the felt off, you're 90% of the way through the work required to replace it entirely. New cloth transforms how a table plays, and the labor cost to install it separately later will far exceed what it costs to do it now. Most professional movers upcharge you anyway — you might as well do it while everything's open.

Pre-Move Prep: Measure, Plan, Assemble Your Crew

Plenty of moves go bad not in the disassembly, but in the two hours before anyone touched a wrench.

Measure Every Passageway

Before you disassemble anything, measure every doorway, hallway, stairwell, and truck opening the table parts will pass through. The largest slate piece on a standard 8-foot three-piece table is roughly 46 x 35 inches and 1-1.25 inches thick — doable through most doorways but a nightmare in tight hallway turns. Check ceiling clearance too; you should not be standing slate on its narrow edge to maneuver it, but people try.

If any passage is narrower than the largest piece plus a couple inches of wrapping, you've got a problem to solve before you start — not mid-move with 200 pounds of slate in your hands.

Assemble Your Crew (The 3-to-4-Person Rule)

Moving a slate pool table with two people is how people end up with cracked slate, dented walls, and pulled backs. The minimum safe crew is three adults; four is better. Assign roles before you start:

• Lead: calls the steps, makes decisions
• Spotters (2-3): actual lifting and carrying
• Hardware keeper: labels bags, takes photos of each step for reassembly reference

our helpers need real upper-body and back strength — this isn't a job for whoever showed up. A 200-pound slate piece held awkwardly between two mismatched people is how slate pieces end up on floors.

Prep the Destination Room First

Before you move anything, get the destination ready. Confirm there's at least five feet of clearance around where the table will sit (the standard for comfortable cue play). Check that the floor is level — if the foundation slopes, you'll be fighting it with shims forever. Lay down moving blankets as a work surface where you'll reassemble. Having the destination staged before you start saves you from carrying heavy parts into a cluttered space.

Step-by-Step Disassembly

This is the heart of the job. Work methodically, label everything, and take photos with your phone between every step. Future-you will thank present-you.

Step 1: Remove the Pockets

Pockets are attached to the rails either by staples (older tables, leather pockets) or by screws (most modern tables). Use a staple puller for stapled pockets — working slowly to preserve the leather — or a screwdriver for screwed pockets. Drop all hardware into a bag labeled "POCKETS + HARDWARE." Set the pockets aside somewhere they won't get stepped on; they're more fragile than they look.

Step 2: Remove the Rails (Cushions/Bumpers)

The rails are the padded sides of the table where the cushions live, and they're held to the frame by rail bolts underneath. On a standard table you'll find about 18 bolts — usually three between each pocket. Use your 1/2-inch socket wrench.

Pro tip: loosen every bolt partway before fully removing any of them. Pulling all the pressure off one rail while the others are still torqued down can flex the frame and cause warping. Back every bolt off by several turns first, then circle back and remove them fully.

Lift the rails off as complete assembled units — don't try to separate cushions from the rail wood. They're designed to stay together. Bag the hardware as "RAIL BOLTS" and set the rails on moving blankets, cushion-side up.

Step 3: Remove the Felt — The Reuse vs. Replace Decision

The cloth (called "felt" by most people, though modern cloth is actually a wool-nylon blend) is either stapled to the slate's backing board or glued directly to the slate. Stapled cloth comes off with a staple puller working edge to edge; glued cloth typically has to be replaced because removing it without damage is nearly impossible.

The big question: reuse or replace? Reuse if your cloth is less than two years old, has no stains, burns, tears, or pilling, and came off cleanly. Replace if any of those conditions aren't met, or if you simply want a fresh playing surface. Replacement cloth is one of the most cost-effective upgrades you can make to a pool table, and you'll never have a better opportunity to install it than right now.

If you're keeping the cloth, roll it, don't fold it. Use a cardboard tube or a piece of PVC pipe. Fold creases become permanent, and a creased piece of cloth will make balls hop for the rest of its life.

Step 4: Remove the Slate — The Critical Step

This is where most damage happens. Slow down.

First, remove the slate screws (usually Phillips head, sometimes countersunk) that hold the slate pieces to the frame. On a three-piece slate, you'll typically find screws around the perimeter and sometimes near the seams.

Next, break the beeswax seal between the slate pieces. Use a putty knife or thin spackle tool and work gently along the seams — the wax holds the pieces together and also acts as a shock absorber. Don't pry with force; work slowly.

Before lifting anything, number the slate pieces. Mark "1," "2," and "3" on the underside of each piece with pencil or chalk, and add an arrow showing which direction was the head of the table. Three-piece slates are not always fully interchangeable, and a professional installer took time to match and level them originally. Preserving their orientation saves hours in reassembly.

Now the lifting. Two people minimum per piece, lifting from the edges — never the corners, which chip easily. Set each piece DOWN FLAT on a padded surface. Slate on edge, unsupported, is slate about to crack. Wrap each piece in two layers of moving blankets before moving it to transport.

Step 5: Disassemble the Frame & Legs

With the slate off, you're left with the wooden frame and legs. Most frames can be flipped upside-down to access the leg bolts; heavier frames may require you to work underneath instead. Leg bolts are typically 9/16-inch socket.

Some tables have removable crossbeams or center supports — check your manual or take photos before removal. Bag the hardware from each leg separately, labeled "LEG 1," "LEG 2," etc. Different legs sometimes use slightly different hardware, and generic "LEGS" bags cause confusion later.

Brand note: Olhausen, Brunswick, Diamond, Valley, and Dynamo tables all have their own quirks. Olhausen tables often use a specific accu-leveler system. Brunswick Gold Crowns have unique slate configurations. Diamond tournament tables have specialized rail systems. If your table is one of these, hunt down a brand-specific reference or manual before disassembly.

Packing & Transport

Protecting parts in transit is where amateurs cut corners and pay for it later.

Protecting the Slate (Your Number One Priority)

Wrap each slate piece individually in at least two layers of moving blankets, with corner protectors on all four corners. Never stack slate pieces — even with padding between them, vibration and shifting during transport will eventually chip or crack them.

Slate should travel flat on the floor of the truck, not vertically against a wall. Slate leaning on edge can crack under its own weight if the truck hits a bump hard enough. Secure everything with ratchet straps.

Protecting the Frame, Rails, and Accessories

Rails get wrapped individually with the cushion side facing in (protects the rubber from compression). The frame, if it stays assembled, gets wrapped as a single unit; if disassembled, wrap sections separately. Legs bundle together with bubble wrap between them so they don't scratch each other.

The felt, if you're reusing it, should be rolled on a tube and wrapped in plastic to keep it clean. Hardware bags should be taped directly to the corresponding component — the bag of "RAIL BOLTS" stays with the rails, not in a general toolbox.

Loading the Truck in the Right Order

Load frame first (it comes out last, which is what you want for reassembly). Load slate last, on the flat, secured with straps, nothing on top of it. Everything else goes between.

Once loaded, drive conservatively. No sudden stops, no sharp turns taken fast, no speed bumps at cruising speed. A good pool table move looks boring from the driver's seat.

Reassembly: The Reverse Order

Reassembly isn't just disassembly backward — it requires more precision, because this is where your table earns its playability for the next decade.

Step 1: Reassemble the Frame & Legs

Attach the legs to the frame while the frame is upside-down, then flip the whole assembly upright with help. Hand-tighten the leg bolts first, then torque them down fully with your wrench once everything is aligned. Position the frame in its final playing location before you add the slate. Moving a fully-loaded table even a few feet is dramatically harder, and you risk re-introducing damage you just avoided.

Step 2: Mount the Slate

Lift each slate piece back into place — three or four people, same as disassembly. Center piece first on three-piece slates, then the two ends. Drop the slate screws in loosely — do not torque them down yet. The slate needs to sit naturally before you fix it in place, or you'll build stress into the assembly.

Do a quick level check across the top with your level before tightening anything. If a piece is sitting dramatically crooked, adjust before fastening.

Step 3: The Critical Leveling Process

Leveling is where amateurs lose the playability of their table. Use a machinist-grade level or at minimum a high-quality 24-inch carpenter's level — the little 12-inch bubble level from your toolbox is not accurate enough.

Check level every six inches across the slate surface, in both directions and diagonally. Anywhere the bubble isn't perfectly centered, slide thin wood shims under the slate (never under the table legs — leg shims affect the whole frame and cause leg wobble).

Tighten the slate screws gradually in a cross-pattern — like torquing lug nuts on a wheel. Sequentially tightening one side and then the other flexes the slate and can cup it. Cross-pattern tightening keeps the slate flat.

After initial leveling, do a final check with a long level or, if you want to go deep, a machinist water level or a laser level. A perfectly leveled pool table will hold a ball stationary in the center of the table; drop a ball anywhere on the surface and it shouldn't roll.

Step 4: Seal the Slate Seams with Beeswax

Beeswax — not wood putty, not silicone caulk, not spackle. Beeswax is the traditional material for a reason: it fills the seams to create a perfectly smooth playing surface while staying flexible enough to absorb minor movement. Wood putty cracks, silicone stays rubbery, spackle crumbles.

Heat a beeswax stick with a heat gun (or carefully with a small butane torch from above — don't apply flame directly to the slate). Let the wax drip and pool into the seams, then smooth it flush with a razor blade or plastic scraper while it's still warm. Let it cool completely — usually 30-60 minutes — before you put the cloth down.

Step 5: Re-Attach the Felt

Whether you're reusing old cloth or installing new, the technique is the same: stretch and staple. Unroll the cloth over the slate and align it with the table edges. Start by stapling one short end to the slate backing board. Pull diagonally to the opposite corner and stretch firmly — the cloth should be taut but not over-stretched. Staple the opposite end, then stretch and staple the long sides, working from center outward on each edge.

Staples go every 2-3 inches along all edges. Wrinkles should be pushed out toward the edges as you go; any wrinkle that remains when you finish will be there forever. Trim excess cloth with a utility knife running along the slate edge.

Cutting the cloth around the pockets is the trickiest part — cut cross-shaped slits at each pocket, then tuck and staple the flaps underneath the slate.

Step 6: Reattach Rails & Pockets

The rails go back in the same orientation they came off — they're usually marked, or match by their bolt-hole pattern. Set each rail in place, then start all the bolts loosely before tightening any of them. Torque the bolts in a cross-pattern, same as the slate.

Reattach the pockets (screws or staples, whichever your table uses). Give everything a final inspection.

The Final Test

Roll a ball slowly across the table in four different directions — short-rail to short-rail, long-rail to long-rail, and both diagonals. A properly leveled and reassembled table will let the ball roll straight and die gradually with no curve. If you see a curve, re-check level on that section and re-shim.

Play a rack. If the table plays true, you've done it right.

Special Scenarios

Most guides stop at a one-size-fits-all process. Here are the situations where the standard approach needs adjustment.

Moving a Pool Table Across the Same Room

For very short moves on flat floors, furniture sliders under the legs can work — but only for lightweight, non-slate tables. Slate tables should be fully disassembled even for cross-room moves. Why? Because the slate screws are designed to hold slate in place during play, not to support the full weight of the slate when the table is being dragged or tilted. Moving an assembled slate table flexes the frame in ways it wasn't designed for, can crack slate at the screw points, and damages rail alignment.

Carpet installers sometimes tell you they move pool tables "all the time" with furniture sliders. This is true; they do. It's also true that they often damage those tables, and they're not the ones who deal with the consequences. Do not trust a non-billiards professional with slate.

Moving a Pool Table Up or Down Stairs

Stairs require full disassembly, no exceptions. The slate pieces go one at a time, with two people per piece — one above, one below — and a third spotter watching for obstacles. Take your time. A dropped slate piece on stairs doesn't just crack the slate; it can crack walls, break banisters, and cause serious injury.

Antique or heirloom table + stairs = hire a professional. No DIY savings are worth the risk.

Moving a Coin-Op or One-Piece Slate Table

Coin-operated tables (Valley, Dynamo, and similar bar tables) often have single-piece slates and can sometimes be moved assembled with a piano dolly. The technique: remove the leg levelers, tip the table onto its side with three or more people controlling the descent, slide a piano dolly underneath, and wheel it out. This only works for short, flat-floor moves with wide-open access — no stairs, no tight turns.

For any significant move of a one-piece slate table, you're better off hiring a specialist. One-piece slate is heavy enough that a small mistake becomes a big mistake very quickly.

Cross-Country Pool Table Moves

Long-distance moves introduce variables DIY can't easily handle: climate changes that affect slate seams and wood frames, extended time in transit, multiple loading/unloading events, and the difficulty of coordinating disassembly at origin with reassembly at destination weeks later.

For cross-country, get quotes from billiards-specialist movers and from moving companies that subcontract to billiards specialists. General long-distance movers often disassemble correctly but reassemble poorly (or not at all). If your long-distance mover doesn't plan to level the table at destination, budget separately for a local billiards mechanic to do it after delivery.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

These are the errors that show up over and over when owners call us for help fixing botched moves.

1. Moving the table fully assembled. Slate screws aren't designed to hold slate weight during transit. Frame flexes, slate cracks, rails misalign.
2. Skipping the labeling step. Reassembling unlabeled hardware is a miserable puzzle, and mismatched bolts damage the frame.
3. Folding the felt instead of rolling it. Fold creases are permanent. Roll on a tube, every time.
4. Standing slate on edge during transport. Slate is strong in compression and weak in flex — on edge, it can crack from its own weight plus road vibration.
5. Using wood putty instead of beeswax on seams. Putty cracks and lifts; beeswax flexes. This one detail affects play quality for the life of the table.
6. Reusing damaged felt. False economy. New cloth is cheap relative to labor; installing damaged cloth wastes the labor.
7. Leveling with legs instead of shims. Leg adjustments change the whole frame. Use thin shims under slate pieces for precision leveling.
8. Not pre-measuring doorways and turns. The worst moment in a pool table move is realizing the slate won't fit through the turn — while holding the slate.
9. Under-staffing the crew. Two people cannot safely move slate. Three is minimum, four is better.
10. Skipping the final roll test. If you don't verify level with a ball roll, you don't know if the table plays true until you've played on it — at which point fixing it is another hour of work.

When to Call a Professional Pool Table Mover

Some moves really do belong with the professionals. Call a pro if:

• Your table is an antique, custom, or luxury brand (Olhausen Accu-Fast, Brunswick Gold Crown, Diamond Pro, etc.)
• It has one-piece slate
• The move involves more than one flight of stairs, or any tight stairwell turn
• You're moving cross-country or cross-state
• You can't recruit at least three capable helpers
• The table has significant sentimental or monetary value and you're not willing to accept any risk

What to look for in a professional mover: specifically a billiards mover, not a general mover. Ask how many pool tables they move monthly. Ask if they carry insurance specifically for pool table damage. Ask if leveling and re-felting are included or separate charges. Ask for references from recent customers.

Red flags: a general moving company claiming they can move pool tables "no problem"; no dedicated pool table equipment (slate dollies, pool-specific moving pads); no references for pool table work specifically; reluctance to discuss insurance coverage.

Expect to pay $500-$850 for most local moves, with premium service reaching $1,500+ and long-distance running up to $4,000. Factor in re-felting ($280-$430) if you want it as part of the job — often worth bundling.

After the Move: Essential Maintenance

Your table isn't quite done when the last bolt is torqued.

Let the table sit and settle for 24-48 hours before heavy play — the wood frame will acclimate to the new room's humidity, and the slate will settle slightly into its final position. Re-check level after one week; sometimes a table that seemed perfectly level on day one drifts slightly as everything settles.

Ongoing care: brush the cloth weekly in one direction (head to foot), never in circles. Dust the rails weekly with a microfiber cloth. Deep-clean the table monthly. Keep room humidity between 40% and 60% to protect both the slate seams and the wood frame — dry air causes seam cracking, humid air causes wood swelling and cloth sagging.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many people do you need to move a pool table? You need a minimum of three strong adults, and four is better. Two people cannot safely move slate pieces that weigh 150-250 pounds each, and solo moves are genuinely dangerous given the weight involved.

Can one person move a pool table? No. Even after full disassembly, individual slate pieces are too heavy for one person to lift safely, and the frame and rails require multiple people to carry without damage. Attempting a solo move risks serious injury and damage to the table.

How long does it take to move a pool table? A same-house move with an experienced crew takes 4-6 hours from disassembly to final leveling. First-time DIY moves often take 6-10 hours because of the learning curve on disassembly, leveling, and re-clothing. Professional movers typically complete local moves in 2-4 hours.

Will moving a pool table damage it? Done correctly, moving will not damage your table. Done incorrectly — skipping disassembly, dropping slate, folding felt, or leveling poorly — a move can cause cracked slate, warped frames, and permanent felt creases. The risk comes from shortcuts, not from the move itself.

Do I have to replace the felt when I move a pool table? Not necessarily. If your felt is less than two years old, clean, tear-free, and comes off the slate without damage, you can reuse it. However, most owners take advantage of the disassembly to install new cloth, since the labor is already happening and fresh felt transforms how the table plays.

How much does a pool table weigh? Non-slate wood tables weigh 180-400 pounds. Slate home tables weigh 650-1,000 pounds depending on size and slate thickness. Tournament tables can weigh 900-1,200 pounds, and heavy commercial 12-foot tournament tables reach 2,500 pounds. Individual slate pieces in a three-piece set weigh 150-250 pounds each.

Can you move a pool table on its side? Never move a fully-assembled pool table on its side — the slate isn't designed to be supported that way and will crack. After full disassembly, individual components can be moved in whatever orientation fits through passageways, though slate pieces should always be kept flat when stationary.

Can you move a pool table without disassembling it? Only for very specific cases: a short, same-room move of a non-slate or one-piece-slate table on a flat floor, using furniture sliders or a piano dolly. Any three-piece slate table should always be fully disassembled, even for cross-room moves, to prevent frame flex and slate damage.

How do you move a pool table down stairs? Full disassembly is mandatory. Carry slate pieces one at a time with one person above and one below, plus a third spotter watching for obstacles. For antique or heavy tables, or multiple flights of stairs, hire a professional pool table mover — this is the scenario where DIY most commonly ends in damage.

What happens if the slate cracks? A cracked slate piece typically has to be replaced, since repairs to slate don't produce a reliable playing surface. Replacement slate runs $400-$900 per piece for standard sizes, plus installation labor. This is why careful lifting, proper wrapping, and flat transport matter so much.

How do you level a pool table after moving it? Use a machinist-grade level or high-quality 24-inch carpenter's level. Check level every six inches across the slate in multiple directions. Shim thin wood shims under the slate (never under the legs) where needed, then tighten slate screws in a cross-pattern. Finish with a ball-roll test in four directions; a properly leveled table will let a ball roll straight with no curve.

How much does it cost to move a pool table? Local moves average $500-$850, with national averages around $650. One-piece slate, stairs, ball returns, and tournament-size tables increase costs. Long-distance moves can run $1,500-$4,000. Re-felting typically adds $280-$430 as an optional add-on.

Should I tip pool table movers? Tipping isn't required but is appreciated for complex jobs. Standard practice is $20-$40 per mover for straightforward moves, more for challenging moves (lots of stairs, long jobs, exceptional care). Many owners skip tipping for quoted flat-rate jobs and tip for hourly work.

Can you move a slate pool table in a pickup truck? Yes, after full disassembly. The slate pieces transport flat on the truck bed, well-wrapped and strapped. A standard three-piece slate set fits in most full-size pickup beds. One-piece slate tables require a larger vehicle or trailer.

How do I find a reputable pool table mover? Ask local billiards retailers (us included) for recommendations — we work with movers regularly. Verify the company specifically moves pool tables as a primary service, check reviews with mentions of pool tables specifically, confirm insurance coverage for slate damage, and ask how many pool tables they handle monthly.

Moving Doesn't Have to Be Stressful

A pool table move is a big project, but it's not a mystery. Preparation, the right tools, a solid crew, and a methodical approach get the job done — and give you a table that plays as true at the new location as it did at the old one.

If you're taking on the move yourself, this is also the perfect time to refresh your cloth, replace worn cushions, or upgrade your pockets and hardware. Everything's already apart; the additional labor is zero. 

And if you decide this is a job for a pro after all, that's the right call too. A table well-moved is worth the investment.

Related guides:

• Coming soon

Billiards Direct has been outfitting pool players and pool table owners with everything from premium cloth and cues to complete re-felt kits and replacement hardware. Our team works with pool table owners on every stage of ownership — from selection to installation, maintenance to relocation. If you've got a question this guide didn't answer, reach out. We're happy to help.